Road Trip Destination-Humboldt Redwood State Park/Avenue of the Giants -

Humboldt County, California

Among the expansive realm of “Plant-Geeks” are the esteemed “Tree-Geeks.” Those of us who love an exotic orchid, native coneflower, or the latest hosta, but start salivating at the sight of a mature elm, towering conifer, or Japanese maple. No matter your plant-loving niche, most would agree the king of the plant kingdom is Sequoia sempervirens, commonly known as the coast redwood.

Unfortunately for St. Louis and most of the planet, these kings require precise conditions to thrive, with just the right amount of humidity, temperature range, and precipitation levels to achieve their gigantic heights of over 300’. (The Hyperion redwood is the tallest on record right now at 381.3’)

Coast redwoods grow naturally only in a narrow, 40-mile-wide strip that runs about 450 miles from southern Oregon to southern Monterey County in California. This maritime microclimate manages to average 65” per year of rainfall within a temperature range of 30- 80°F, and ample amounts of fog.

*Look up through the inside of the Chimney Tree*

California’s section of the Redwood Belt includes Humboldt County and the 31-mile Avenue of the Giants. Along the winding “Avenue” are points of interest like the Shrine Tree, Chimney Tree, and Grandfather Tree, along with gift shops, food, and restroom facilities for typical tourists.

The Grandfather Tree

One of the most popular stops for more botany-minded tourists is the Founder’s Grove, with a half-mile trail that leads you through live and fallen redwoods, including the fallen Dyerville Giant and the Founders Tree. The educational visitor guide at the trailhead is well done, especially for those traveling with kids or wanting a more in-depth experience as they get up close and personal with the trees.

*Patient Hubby gives the root mass of the Dyerville Giant scale.*

Founder’s Grove fosters a more natural appreciation of the redwoods and how they exist together as a grove and ecosystem. Appreciation leads to education. And education is key since conservation usually follows education. Without appreciative, redwood-educated individuals back in the early 1900’s, we wouldn’t have the meager 5% of these ancient forests left today, and this article would have a totally different take.

John C. Merriam, Madison Grant, and Henry Fairfield Osborn were inspired to start the movement to save the remaining stands of virgin forest, founding the Save the Redwoods League (S.R.L.). In 1921, only three years after the League’s creation, Humboldt Redwoods State Park was put on the map, including the original logging road as the early Redwood Highway.On August 27, 1960, the road was designated as State Route 254 after U.S. 101 moved to a freeway bypass, and the Avenue of the Giants was born.

The Avenue parallels the Eel River with a rich history from the indigenous Sinkyone people and their village, Ltcuntdun, to the logging settlement, Dyerville, wiped out by a 1955 deluge.

Because of the tremendous heights redwoods achieve, they can live in three climatic zones at the same time. The trees have adapted two types of needles:: spiky and round in the upper canopy where there’s more light and evaporation, and broad and flat below to catch the dappled light that trickles down toward the forest floor. Redwoods create their own microclimate through transpiration, releasing up to 500 gallons of water per day. The canopy can be home to unique species that never touch the ground 200+ feet below.

“Redwood,” as a commodity, is known for its longevity and durability, making the trees highly desirable during California’s boom years beginning in the 1850’s. The Gold Rush, and later housing demand after WWII, also increased logging in the area as demand grew. Today, old-growth redwoods are legally protected, while commercial timber companies grow and harvest 2^nd- and 3rd-growth trees. Harvest cycles can range from 50 to 150 years, making redwood more expensive than pine, which has a 23-25 year harvest time.

For hard-core Tree-Geeks like myself, there are plenty of places to pull off the Avenue, away from the tourists, and “have a moment.” Being alone in an ancient redwood forest humbles most people. For Plant-Geeks, it’s closer to a religious experience.

*False Solomon’s seal-Maianthemum racemosum thrives on the redwood forest floor.*

My “moment” was during a light rain, which only elevated the experience, heightening the sights, sounds, and scents around me. The steady “plop” of raindrops hitting the wood sorrel leaves on the forest floor sounded like a heartbeat, and even the spongy ground beneath my feet felt otherworldly. When you are just over 5’ high and in your 50s standing next to a living thing over 300’ high and thousands of years old, “humble” doesn’t even come close to describing it. For me, it felt like being in the presence of spiritual beings on another plane of existence altogether. I was by myself (having left the Handsome Hubby at the Avenue of the Giants Marathon starting line), yet I never felt alone. You could sense the trees felt your presence and intent, and so the desire to be respectful, quiet, and grateful for their company was as overwhelming as the tremendous heights of the coastal redwoods themselves.

What I love about this destination:

-One of the most easily accessible places to visit an ancient coastal redwood forest.

-Even non-plant-geeks are impressed by redwoods and this drive.

-The redwood experience along the Avenue can be customized, from just a nice drive through the trees to full-immersion hikes. Plenty to keep kids entertained, shopaholics, in debt, and plant-geeks drooling.

Know before you go;

-Although there aren’t any hotels or motels along the 31-mile stretch of Avenue of the Giants, there is ample lodging at each end, and camping options in multiple places inside the state park.

-No service/gas stations along the 31-mile stretch either.

-Driving along the Avenue of the Giants is free.

-The Annual Avenue of the Giants Marathon is typically held in spring, and the road will be closed for the runners, so check the dates. If you are a plant-geek/runner-THIS IS THE MARATHON/HALF/10K FOR YOU!