January Anti-Perennial of the Month-Wintercreeper
I usually save the “Anti” plants of the month for fall, but there is a good reason to feature wintercreeper, Euonymus fortunei, in winter, besides having “winter” in the common name.
My main reason is that being evergreen, winter is when you can actually find this sneaky invasive. Like Japanese honeysuckle vines, October ANTI-Shrub of the Month-Honeysuckle – wintercreeper has a knack for sneaking into places even the most meticulous gardener or homeowner can’t see. There it thrives, seemingly needing no light or water … becoming so woody and thick before you finally notice it, it takes a herd of tree guys with chainsaws and a stump remover to remove it.
Winter, when we don’t have snow cover, is a great time to stroll the garden or back yard and really take inventory of things, including invasives. Check under deciduous shrubs, around tree bases, behind potting sheds, back corners, and trash can enclosures. These are places often overlooked or not seen during the growing season when perennials and leaves hide the young invasives. When small, wintercreeper can be pulled by hand. Once mature and woody, it’s going to require the big guns, and that, unfortunately, sometimes means resorting to herbicide. After removing as much as possible, cutting and painting any stumps left in the ground is the best way to eliminate invasives that can’t be pulled out ENTIRELY by hand. Do not broadcast spray over a mass of foliage; this does more harm than good and is not effective on the invasive plant you are trying to eliminate. Late summer through fall is the best time of year to apply herbicide for the best results. If necessary, this winter, use tagging tape or flags to mark any invasive plants that will have to wait until fall for treatment.
Wintercreeper vine, or climbing euonymus, as it’s sometimes called, has thick, rounded leaves with pale veins, arranged opposite each other along the stiff, green stems. Mature stems age to a light brown color, but usually green can still be seen between the brown ridges. The stems use rootlets to aid in climbing walls, fences, and tree trunks up to 50’, and will worm their way under house siding, up downspouts, and between rocks. The aggressive nature of this vine is basically unstoppable, which is why I deem it one of the Four Horsemen of the Biological Apocalypse for our area.
Wintercreeper was most commonly used as a groundcover due to its fast growth, tolerance to both shade and sun, evergreen color in winter, and impressive drought resistance. Unfortunately, it’s common to see it escaping from planting beds and climbing tree trunks or taking off into the woods and other natural areas. It also spreads when birds eat the small, round fruits in orange capsules and then distribute the seeds along fence rows and under trees.
In 2025, the Missouri legislature passed a ban on the sale of this and several other invasive species, so hopefully you will not find it for sale, but chances are you won’t have to buy it because it’s already in your garden, hiding and waiting…
-If you have wintercreeper climbing your trees, do not pull off the vines! The thick, strong roots can damage tree bark when pulled off. Instead, cut the stems at the base and leave them attached to the tree. The vines will eventually wilt and wither, making them easier to remove, but to be safe, just leave them be. On a house or wall, once the vines have withered, they can be scraped off, but sanding and repainting is usually needed afterwards. Prevention is a lot easier.
-Do NOT broadcast spray herbicide over any invasive foliage. Wait until late summer or fall, then use the ‘cut and paint’ method to apply the herbicide to the leftover stumps.
-PREVENTION is the easiest way to control wintercreeper or other invasives. Check your gardens and yards and pull young vines out, including roots, before they mature!
-Comments or questions? Email Garden-Lou at gardenloustl@gmail.com
Words and photos by Jo Batzer
© Jo Batzer, garden-lou.com-2026, All rights reserved.
